In the countryside south of Paris, two stars of the city’s bistro scene have created a quintessential farm-to-table destination
Le Doyenné’s restaurant, located in the former stables of the Château de Saint-Vrain, a 15th-century country estate south of Paris.In the late aughts and early teens, Paris’s food scene took on a fresh, youthful quality. As part of the bistronomy movement, ambitious young chefs opened laid-back bistros like Frenchie and Aux Deux Amis, offering quality food and an approachable vibe. Two such chefs were fellow Australians James Henry and Shaun Kelly.
Henry made his Paris reputation at the small-plate bistro Au Passage, and then in 2013, when he opened his own place, the hyperseasonal spot Bones, he handed over the Au Passage reins to Kelly, a former colleague from their time at Melbourne restaurant Cumulus Inc. “There was influence from Paris, and we brought something from outside,” says Henry, 39. “We mixed these two things together and something seemed to work for this city.”
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